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Messages - Litch

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Toylander 2 / Re: Toylander 2 reincarnation
« on: 05 April, 2016, 06:46:45 PM »
The new paint will probably be brushed but I will take my time and prep well so hopefully it will look ok.
I am not after a toy prepared to show standard, it is just for a bit of fun so I would be happy with a decent brush finish again. I am looking forward more to trying some of the modifications. My dad never even bothered to stick on the dummy handles or paint the door-lines so the side look a bit bare, I think that I will have a go at the lines, make the dummy handles & filler cap and it should look a bit better from the side. Also fancy a stalk on the column to operate the indicators, have spied a suitable candidate so will have to see if it will get into the way when I get my legs inside.

I am hoping to carry it in the rear of my Defender, it is a soft-top (has no rear-door) so a small amount of overhang would not be a problem however too much and it will hit the rear-mounted spare. Haven't got my tape-measure out yet so fingers crossed!

Toylander 2 / Toylander 2 reincarnation
« on: 04 April, 2016, 09:32:43 PM »
Nothing startling.

My old dad built this Toylander 2 back in 2010 as a labour of love (he loves woodwork) and also so my nephews could drive it around. It is 24V twin motor and uses 100% RLT parts while dad made the body in ply from the plans supplied, I dealt with most of the mechanical & electrical work. It is a vague copy of the S11 my dad owned in the 1960's to late 1970's and wears the same number-plate as that did.
Turns out my nephews weren't interested (they are rather proficient in scrambling and have won many trophies so maybe a battery powered Toylander was a bit tame?) and apart from a couple of turns around the garden it has been neglected and locked away in its own little garage with the batteries on maintenance charge since then. I give it a run around once or twice a year and it still goes well and turns heads (well a 50-year old driving this around the streets would wouldn't it!) but it seemed a crying shame to let it die (cost a fair bit to make as well).

Fast forward to 2016.

I have inherited it and am about to build it a nice garage over at my place.
Some nice alloy number-plates have already been ordered from Gavin. It will be stripped down and before repainting (in bronze green to match my own Land Rover) I will add a few touches that I have spied on this site (dummy door-handles, filler cap, LED side & indicator lights, alloy capping instead of paint etc) and then I will take it along to the various Land Rover shows that I have been a regular at for some 30-years just for the fun of driving it around instead of walking!

Will post updates as & when they happen.

Used it last weekend when the decision was made to hand it over to me and the batteries are still good, both my wife and myself drove it around for a good long while and there was no sign of them failing. Testament to a good maintenance charger.

Advertisements / Re: Dashboard dials for the Toylander II
« on: 02 April, 2016, 08:58:25 PM »

I asked Gavin about the gauges and he said that they are too time consuming and therefore he does not make them any more.  :'(
Still ok for the scale number-plates & Land Rover badges though.  ;D

Toylander 1 / Re: New in the game, but have a few questions
« on: 20 February, 2012, 07:53:13 PM »
I take it you intend to scratch build everything and not use the components available from RLT?
Personally I would order the plans ASAP and have a read through them as they will answer all your questions.

The rear axle is not solid and each wheel is free to rotate it its own speed. The convenional set-up is for one wheel to be drive via a single motor or if you want improved mobility then a twin motor set-up with one driving each wheel (via a short chain). I personally drive a vehicle with this set-up and it handles my 16-stone bulk without any problems and the mobility & traction given by the twin drive is very evident.
A 36V motor is going to need three batteries, there is room under the bonnet for two but unless you use smaller batteries (and live with the reduced capacity) I think you will be struggling to locate them. Of course one option would be to utilize the rear load bed.

Toylander 2 / Re: Toylander 2 new build
« on: 30 May, 2011, 02:38:50 PM »
When it came to sourcing the parts for the Toylander my father built (I paid, he built it and I did the electrics) we just took the easy option and bought almost everything from Richard. The wood for the body came from a local timber supplier, my father sourced the material for the seats and I put together the wiring harness (it used to be my job) but the rest came from RLT. No problems trying to make things fit or spending hours trying to source parts elsewhere, just paid the money and got on with it.
I admit that if you are on a budget then this isn't the way to go or if you like the challenge of finding/making the parts but it did make the build quicker, much more straight-forward and of course it means that if there is a need to source spares in the future then they will be available off the shelf. Nothing from Richard costs a lot of money on its own but I suppose that when you total up the final bill it can be a bit of a shock, especially if you have gone for the twin motor/battery set-up as we did.

Toylander 2 / Re: lights
« on: 27 March, 2011, 06:16:59 PM »
Which lights do you mean, headlights or tail/indicator?
I think I am correct in saying that Richard has had the new LED side & indicator lights made up himself so you won't be able to get them from anywhere else. If you mean the earlier bulb lights or the headlamps then they are available from any automotive motor-factors but they will have to order them in for you and won't be any cheaper than what Richard sells them for. Alternatively you can buy them from Ebay but you need to know what you are after and type in the correct manufacturer & model details and they still won't be any cheaper. The headlamps are standard items made by Le Perei & Wipac and are widely used by coachbuilders and vehicle manufacturers like Land Rover, as above they are available all over but no cheaper than from Richard.

If using the Le Perie or Wipac lights as headlights then you can either use LED 'bulbs' or just buy a full LED version for a massive improvement in light output while actually reducing the current draw. LED 'bulbs' sourced from the Far East via Ebay are really cheap and very effective, we have them in our TL2 and for £2.50 they are really impressive. I have the full LED versions on my Land Rover and while more expensive (about £50 each) they are REALLY bright and make night-time Toylander playtime a reality.

Toylander 1 / Re: toylander 1 wiring layout
« on: 16 January, 2011, 07:31:38 PM »
This is the underbonnet wiring layout I did for the twin-motor T2 my father just completed.

He added a false floor to the compartment so the batteries had a smooth surface to sit on, apparently this isn't shown in the plans?

P.S. This is the first photo link I have ever tried to post, could some kind person confirm that the link works please? ;)

You just needed to either click on the picture icon or put the image tags around the photo.

Toylander 2 / SCALE BADGES
« on: 03 March, 2010, 05:17:22 PM »

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